Originally published in 1939, this book contains practical knowledge on the science of tailoring and sewing by making it attractive and accessible to all minds desirous of learning it.
Contents Covered:
- Preface
- To the teacher of sewing and garment making
- To all who sew
- Description of individual types and postures
- Description of measures
- Measures
- Standard table of measures
- Pattern drafting by the Gurney self-grading method
- The Gurney sure-fit curve chart
- How to use the Gurney curve chart
- Drafting the dress back
- Drafting the two-piece dress back
- Drafting the dress front
- Drafting the two-piece dress front
- Adapting the normal size standard patterns to individual requirements applicable to all makes of patterns
- Fitting the round shouldered individual
- A quick easy method of adapting commercial patterns for the round shouldered
- Altering ready-made garments for high shoulders
- Pin tucks in the back
- Fitting the individual with large bust
- To make pin tucks in the front
- To enlarge a pattern over the bust with or without the use of pin tucks
- The primary cause of ill-fitting garments and Shrinking woolens
- Cutting the material and making garments
- Drafting the sleeves with the use of the Gurney curve chart
- Sleeves and sleeve measurements applicable to all makes of patterns
- Drafting sleeves
- To draft the straight dress or coat sleeve
- The tight sleeve
- To draft the tight sleeve
- The straight coat sleeve made tight on the wrist
- How the Gurney sleeve differs from all other makes of sleeve patterns
- The two-piece jacket and coat sleeve
- To draft the two-piece jacket and coat sleeve
- To enlarge the sleeve at the top for the large arm
- Enlarging the sleeve for the big arm
- The Gurney comfortable short sleeve
- To make the sleeve larger or smaller at the wrist
- The short sleeve which is gathered at the bottom
- For gathers at the bottom
- For gathers at the top
- To draft the balloon sleeve applicable to coats and dresses
- To draft the bell sleeve
- Fancy coat sleeve (large at elbow, small at wrist)
- To draft the bishop sleeve
- Adapting the dress pattern for woolen garments
- The costume slip
- To draft the costume slip
- The kimono dress
- To draft the kimono dress
- To draft Peter Pan collars
- Maximum roll collar
- The Gurney method of sure-fit collar drafting
- Roll collars
- To draft the shirt waist
- The shirt waist
- The transposing of darts to obtain various styles, applicable to all makes of patterns
- To draft the Eton jacket (Bolero)
- To draft the plain coat
- Pressing and removing shine
- To enlarge a coat pattern over the bust
- To draft the jacket
- To draft the jacket pattern
- To draft a jacket pattern with a seam in the center of the back
- To draft the fitted coat
- The fitted coat
- To draft the coat raglan
- The raglan coat
- The raglan coat and sleeve
- To draft the dolman coat
- To draft the dolman coat sleeve
- To draft the swagger coat
- To draft the dress raglan
- To draft children's dress and coat patterns
- To draft children's sleeve patterns
- The Gurney method of basting sleeves in the garment
- To draft the cape
- To make buttonhole loops
- To grade the dress back
- To grade the dress front
- Grading the straight dress and coat sleeve
- Grading the tight sleeve
- To cut a coat lining
- Relining a coat
- To cut the lining for the two-piece sleeve
- To make tailor tacks
- The Gurney method of economical correct necktie cutting and making
- Simplicity short cut steps in coat making
- The Gurney method of making the highest grade collar applicable to coats and dresses
- The method of making a plain collar
- The Gurney method of drafting sure-fit skirt patterns
- Drafting the plain skirt front
- Drafting the plain skirt back
- To draft the gored skirt
- To draft the panel skirt
- To draft the yoke skirt
- To draft the circular skirt
- To make the inverted pleat
- To make the plain skirt and dress placket
- The Gurney sure-fit method of making the concealed talon, hookless, sliding, fastener skirt placket
- To make a dress hem in silk, crept and very light weight woolen
- To sew hooks and eyes on a skirt belt
- To make a hem in heavy woolen material
- Making and finishing the hem for the pleated skirt
- Easy method of making corners
- Skirt slacks
- Measures required for skirt slacks
- Drafting skirt slacks front
- Drafting skirt slacks back
- Shorts for sport garments
- Economical cutting of slacks
- Making slacks
- The Gurney sure-fit men's and boys' shorts
- Normal standard measures
- To draft men's and boys' shorts
- How to cut shorts
- How to make shorts
- Shirt measures
- Methods of taking shirt measures
- Proportionate standard shirt measures
- To draft men's and boys' shirts
- Yoke and neck curves for all sizes
- To make the French front with Indian head facing
- Shirt collar
- Neck band
- Cuffs
- To make the French shirt front with the facing material cut on the front
- To draft the shirt sleeve
- The Gurney easy and correct method for making the shirt sleeve placket
- Men's shirt sleeve placket
- The Gurney method of making bound pockets and buttonholes in light weight woolens, silk or lingerie materials
- Bound buttonholes
- The patch pocket for dresses
- The Gurney method of making the inset stand pocket for woolens, silk or lingerie materials
- The inset stand pocket
- The in and out flap pocket
- Patch pocket for woolens
- Corded pockets and buttonholes
- The Gurney new high grade method of finishing buttonholes
- The older method of making piped buttonholes and pockets
- The braid or bias tape pocket
- The welt pocket
- The welt pocket with pressed-open seams
- The pressed, open-seam bound pocket or buttonhole
- Index
| Format: | PDF Digital Reprint, e-Facsimile |
| No. of Pages: | 193 |
| Page Size: | Letter (8.5" × 11") |
| Download Size: | 80.2 MB |
